Every summer, thousands of BMW riders from all over the country point their bikes at one place, the BMW MOA National Rally. In 2025 it was the “Rhythm & Rides Reunion,” held June 19-21 in Lebanon, Tennessee, and I finally made it. It was my very first BMW MOA rally and my very first moto camping trip. Two firsts in one go. What could go wrong?

Quite a bit, actually. We got rain, fog, heat, an oil leak, thunderstorms, and one tent that flew away. I loved every minute of it anyway. I did the whole loop on my BMW R 1300 GS: New York to Virginia, then Tennessee, then South Carolina, and back to New York. Here’s how it went.

Day One: Rain, Fog, Heat and an Oil Leak

I rode down with a group of friends (my club, the Long Island BMW Riders Club (LIBMWRC), had a club tent waiting at the rally). We rolled out early, aiming for Roanoke, Virginia, which is roughly halfway to Tennessee. The day started with rain, and the rain turned into thick fog. It wasn’t cold, but it was humid, the kind of weather that clings to your gear. Still, it felt great to finally be on the road.

Brunch was at the Midway Diner in Pennsylvania. It’s called Midway because it sits midway between Harrisburg and Allentown. It had chrome counters, strong coffee, and hearty food. Classic.

After the fog lifted, the ride got hot and long, until one of our group noticed an oil leak. Luckily, someone had packed an extra bottle of oil, and a quick roadside top-up got us moving again. Later we stopped at a BMW dealership to stock up on supplies, just to be safe.

Tip: Carry a small bottle of the oil your bike uses on long trips. That one bottle saved our day.

By afternoon we rode into a thunderstorm. The downpour made the ride challenging, but it was refreshing too. Within 10 minutes of the storm passing we were completely dry again. That’s how hot it was. We made it to Roanoke tired but satisfied.

Day Two: Taking the Long Way on the Back of the Dragon

Day two started at 5:30 a.m. Bikes were being prepped, and a bird decided my mirror was the best spot on the entire bike. After the previous evening’s heat, the cool morning air felt like a blessing.

Our group of five split up. Three riders headed straight to the rally to get more time for shopping. Don and I had another idea. I didn’t want the full highway haul to Tennessee. I wanted good roads, so we took the scenic route over Virginia’s Back of the Dragon.

Before we split, the rain started again, so we all took a longer break at a little local coffee shop with a name I’d never heard before: Starbucks. Maybe they should think about opening a few more of those around the country.

What Is the Back of the Dragon?

It’s a stretch of Virginia Route 16 between Marion and Tazewell: about 32 miles and a quoted 438 curves over three mountain ridges. It also passes Hungry Mother State Park and its lake.

It was my first time riding it. We started in Marion and rode south to north. That might not be “the right way,” but it was on our way.

How It Rode

The moment we rolled into those winding mountain roads, we knew we’d made the right call. The rain had stopped, but a light fog hung over the ridges, keeping the air cool and the scenery dramatic.

We each rode at our own pace, and a lot of it was second-gear riding for me. Roads like this are great practice because we don’t get them often: body positioning, a little trail braking, then commit to the turn. Then come the views. Out of the clouds, the rolling hills and quiet valleys of rural Virginia just open up in front of you.

If you ride it:

• Direction: Marion to Tazewell (south to north) worked well for us heading toward Tennessee.
• Pace: Ride your own ride. There’s no prize for keeping up with your buddy.
• Weather: We got fog, rain, and a storm chasing us from behind, all in one morning. Keep your rain gear within reach.
• Stops: Use the pull-offs. The views are worth it.

A Bear Story at the Back of the Dragon

Staying one step ahead of that storm, we pulled into the Back of the Dragon stop for pizza and a break. That’s where we met Larry.

Larry was on his GS, doing about 50 mph, when a bear of a little over 300 lb came running at him at an angle. The right cylinder (the “jug”) on the boxer engine caught the bear, and the bike got knocked a good three feet. Larry caught it and brought it back. In his words, if it hadn’t been a Beamer, “it would have been a whole different story.”

He’s been riding since the ’70s. He survived a deer strike that put him in the hospital for months, then the bear, and now elk have been brought into the area. His joke was that it might be time to retire from bikes, because you don’t want elk on your list.

Thank you Larry for sharing that on camera. I picked up a shirt, left a sticker from my GS, and we were on our way.

The Rest of the Ride to Lebanon

From there it was around 330 miles to the BMW MOA campground in Lebanon. We got more pouring rain, beautiful Virginia countryside full of farms and rolling hills, and finally the inevitable hot, boring interstate into Tennessee.

We also stopped at Buc-ee’s near Knoxville. Honestly, the size of that place is mind-blowing. It felt like a small city, with gas pumps as far as the eye can see.

Arriving at the BMW MOA Rally

By the time we reached the rally grounds, the sun was blazing. I felt like a kid in a candy store: thousands of motorcycles, riders from all over the country, and an overwhelming sense of community. One love, one rider nation.

After registration I found my friends at the LIBMWRC club tent and set up my own tent. A neighbor gave me a great tip: the ground had a slight slope, so I should turn the tent so my head was uphill. It’s a small thing that makes a big difference for sleep.

First-time camper tip: Check the slope before you stake down, and keep your head uphill.

Rally Activities and Displays

The campground is quiet at 5 a.m. You can hear everyone because, well, they’re tents, not private quarters. After a decent coffee and breakfast, it was time to explore.

Quinn Redeker’s Motorcycle Control Demo

The event I was most excited about was Quinn Redeker’s motorcycle control demonstration. Quinn is a former police motor officer who trains police and civilian riders and competes in police motorcycle rodeos. Watching his precision on a big bike was honestly inspiring.

His time on the cone course was 1:02, about two seconds better than the 1:04 he set the day before. Then came the slow-speed balance, which was even more mind-blowing. He kept the bike almost stationary for 1 minute and 17 seconds, with his body on the bike’s center line, balancing it just by moving the handlebars inches at a time. I wish I could do that at every stop sign.

Bikes, Vendors and Vintage Machines

• Well-travelled bikes: One had a plate reading 400,000 miles, three continents, five bikes, and one llama, plus stickers from places I’d never heard of. We did wonder whether he rode to all of them or just bought the stickers online.
• Creative builds: a GS sidecar rig from Montana, and bikes with stock exhausts just turned sideways.
• Vintage bikes: These were beautiful. Judges can tell when a single bolt is from the wrong year, and it costs points.
• Wall of Death: The show was set up, but both of its bikes had mechanical issues, so we missed it.

The food wasn’t amazing, but it wasn’t bad either. It kept us fueled through the long, hot days. I also did some shopping, and that gear has its own section below.

The Storm That Flattened the Campground

While we were packing up, a thunderstorm came out of nowhere. It wasn’t in the forecast, and only one guy called it. Within minutes the campground was chaos, and one tent was just gone.

It lasted maybe 10 minutes. Then came blue skies and the moment of truth. My tent held up, and the bag I was worried about stayed dry. REI to the rescue. A friend wasn’t so lucky: his tent was seven years old and had lost its waterproofing.

Lesson learned: Invest in your camping gear, and re-waterproof an old tent before a rally.

Lebanon is close to Nashville, and the rally had great live music both nights I stayed. Live bands plus ice cream in hot, humid weather made a perfect end to each day. The facilities were great, but after a couple of nights in a tent I was definitely ready for a proper hot shower.

After the Rally: Tail of the Dragon, Off-Road School and 735 Miles Home

The rally was only the middle of the trip. From Tennessee I rode the Tail of the Dragon, the famous US 129 stretch with a quoted 318 curves in 11 miles, on my way down to Greer, South Carolina.

In Greer I did two days of BMW off-road training at the BMW Performance Center (BMW U.S. Rider Academy). Those were extremely hot days. The training deserves its own video and post.

Then came the ride home: 735 miles in one day, from Charlotte, North Carolina, to New York, on one of the record heat days. Long and hot. This is where my rally shopping paid off.

Gear I Picked Up at the Rally

SW-MOTECH PRO GS tank bag (16-20 l): I ordered it at the rally for over 20% off, which is one of the best reasons to shop there, and had it shipped home so I wasn’t hauling it on the bike. It’s made for steeply sloped tanks like the GS’s, expands from 16 to 20 liters, and has a MOLLE panel on top for phone holders. Heads-up: the PRO tank ring for your bike is sold separately.

Wild Ass Smart Lite seat cushion: I bought this one on the spot for the long ride ahead, and it runs around $100 to $115 (it’s listed at $114.99 on Wild Ass’s site). The vendor showed me how to fit it, and also told me that if it slides, it has too much air. Totally worth it. Compared with the competition on the market, it’s way better in comfort, looks, and adjustability. A 735-mile day is exactly what I bought it for.

Wrapping Up

If you’re planning your first BMW MOA Rally, here’s my short list:

• Take the long way. Roads like the Back of the Dragon make the trip.
• Pack for every weather. Rain, fog, heat, and thunderstorms, sometimes all in one day.
• Carry a spare bottle of oil.
• Bring a good tent and pitch it head uphill.
• Don’t miss the demos. Quinn Redeker alone was worth it.
• Shop at the rally, ship it home. The rally deals are real.

Watch the full video above for the whole ride, Larry’s bear story, and the storm. If you have questions, ask in the comments. I’m happy to help. If you enjoyed it, hit like and subscribe at youtube.com/@ninerpeak for more ride vlogs, how-tos and gear reviews.

Keep riding, stay safe. Peace.

Links

• SW-MOTECH PRO GS tank bag 16-20 l (official, US)
• Wild Ass Smart – Lite Motorcycle Cushion (official product page)
• Long Island BMW Riders Club (LIBMWRC)
• BMW MOA National Rally

Related: Do your own oil changes? Here’s how to reset the R 1300 GS service reminder without a GS-911. Into dirt? Check out my NEBDR Section 2 guide, and for talking to your group on the road, here’s my Cardo intercom guide.